lunedì 14 aprile 2008

Moda e sport

Moda e sport. Complementari?
La moda e lo sport insieme da sempre, interinfluenzabili. Tesi da argomentare chiarendo il significato dei termini. Si può intendere il binomio moda e sport come l’uno il connotato dell’altro: lo sport va di moda, in diverse epoche con diverse modalità ma sempre. Ma non è in questo senso che qui vogliamo esplicitare la tesi iniziale. Quello che ho intenzione di fare è comprendere come i due ambiti, moda e sport intesi come settori sociali e di azione nonché di mercato, siano oggi entrati sempre più in relazione e denotino una particolare espressione del sé, quella dell’apparire. Vorrei evidenziare come l’ambiente sport si intreccia sempre più con l’ambiente moda in varie modalità di espressione. Lo sport è una moda e come ogni moda diviene un fenomeno sociale. La sua evoluzione è simile alla manifestazione di una tendenza. Emerge la tendenza in qualche luogo, viene praticata, viene conosciuta, viene pubblicizzata e poi diventa fenomeno di massa perdendo il connotato di tendenza e divenendo fenomeno sociale. Prendiamo il jogging, modalità di pratica sportiva tipica del mondo anglosassone per cause ambientali: grandi aree verdi e clima temperato. Il jogging era un fenomeno di nicchia, è diventato tendenza negli anni ottanta e ora è fenomeno sociale da cui si sono sviluppate diverse varianti: il running, lo step, l’walking. Tutto ciò ha creato interesse in vari strati della popolazione e nel mercato, tanto che nel settore abbigliamento si è sviluppata un’area tutta dedicata al fitness e in specifico al jogging e alle sue varianti. La moda si intreccia allo sport come accessorio indispensabile. Accessorio perché mettere una tuta o un calzoncino è la stessa cosa a livello pratico, indispensabile perché influenza la propria presentabilità sociale e la propria identificazione con il trendy e con l’in. Essere trendy ed essere in implicano altri connotati nel proprio esserci, nel proprio manifestarsi. Chi è trendy, è informato e ha disponibilità economiche o almeno lo fa credere. Chi è in non solo è trendy, ma lo è in maniera personalizzata, ha trasformato il trendy in stile personale. Vi faccio un esempio: Madonna è in, Victoria Beckham è trendy. La prima inventa e personalizza, la seconda si adegua. Questo è uno dei tanti modi in cui il binomio moda e sport si legano. Lo sport ha influenzato in maniera pregnante la moda tanto che tutta un’area del casual ha preso spunto dallo sport. Tessuti sempre più leggeri, tecnologici: non si stirano, si asciugano presto, lasciano respirare le pelle; queste esigenze, proprie degli sportivi, sono diventate d’uso comune e hanno fatto tendenza influenzando vari brand che hanno copiato tali idee e le hanno massificate. Oggi tendiamo a scegliere questo tipo di abbigliamento perché pratico e comodo ma anche perché bello. La bellezza nell’abbigliamento sportivo è una novità degli anni 90 2000 che tutti APPREZZANO anche gli stessi sportivi. In questo caso prima lo sport ha influenzato la MODA poi la moda ha influenzato lo sport. Lo sportivo è spesso trendy e si presenta tale sul campo di gara e fuori. Viene usato come testimonial di varie marche sportive e non, perché il suo esserci nel mondo è di moda e così il suo apparire rispecchia la moda. Essere di moda per prestazioni sportive crea il personaggio che diventa esso stesso fenomeno di moda.
Fino a qui abbiamo visto gli intrecci più comuni fra moda e sport che si sono manifestati a livello sociale negli ultimi anni. Ma perché ciò è avvenuto? Cosa ha provocato tale interscambiabilità? Qui adopero temi già trattati in alcuni articoli e brevi saggi pubblicati in rete che sono secondo me dei ritorni imprescindibili. Nel nostro tempo si è praticato un sempre più esigente e attento culto del corpo. Il corpo è la nostra vetrina e il nostro biglietto da visita. In una società dedita all’immagine e pregna di immagini come la nostra, il corpo è ciò che si manifesta per primo e che per primo viene osservato e apprezzato. Chi ha un bel corpo è socialmente accettato immediatamente, non deve dimostrare nulla, almeno all’inizio di qualsiasi rapporto e relazione. Poi saranno importanti altre doti: quali l’intelligenza nel porsi ma al momento dell’incontro ciò che viene guardato è il corpo. E ciò vale sia per la componente maschile che per quella femminile, si va verso l’oggettivazione della persona, nel momento dell’incontro, preludio del riconoscimento dell’altro, ci si presenta con il corpo e solo con quello. Si vive sempre di più e sempre con maggiori agii, ciò ha portato ad apprezzare in maniera forte il lato estetico del nostro esserci e quindi il corpo. Il corpo va curato, il corpo va abbellito. Ed ecco allora il binomio moda e sport: si cura il corpo con lo sport e lo si fa in bello stile. Lo stile è diventato un connotato del benessere sociale ed esistenziale. Se hai stile, stai bene con te stesso e con gli altri. Ciò significa che hai acquisito un certo status sociale ma anche che stai bene con te stesso e sai gestire le relazioni. Lo stile è sinonimo di sicurezza del sé e della gestione corretta della relazione con l’altro. Il culto del corpo significa bellezza e salute, due valori della società contemporanea che sono in continua evoluzione e assumono connotati sociali (che ho già descritto), psicologici e psicanalitici: piacersi è piacere all’altro e aiuta nella relazione normale e amorosa. La componente libidica lavora sotto ai rapporti e li influenza, il corpo è il veicolo di tale lavorio. Lavorare con un collega o una collega piacevole a vedersi allieta il tempo trascorso insieme e quindi anche il risultato. Essere belli è sempre più importante per tutti e a tutti i livelli. Il binomio moda e sport è in funzione di tale mitizzazione del sé esteriore.

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